Australian whisky

The last few years have seen a meteoric increase in both the popularity and quality of Australian whisky, yet by world standards, the industry is young. This comes as quite a surprise for several reasons. A taste for spirits arrived with the First Fleet (1788), as did the British Navy custom of trading and rationing spirits (beer and wine didn't keep well on long voyages). Initially, these were mainly rum type concoctions meant strictly for officers and officials and used medicinally or on special occasions. However, they quickly became an article of exchange between all social classes. Convicts and soldiers were often paid with rum, even abstainers received a ration. Given the difficult conditions in the young colony combined with an ignorance of viticulture, it's not surprising that strong spirit became entrenched as the preferred palliative well before wine and beer. Spirits were set to be big business. The privately contracted Second Fleet which arrived in 1790 sought to maximise the material opportunities of the voyage, loading ships with goods to trade at exorbitant prices - including spirits. Recognising 'New Holland' as a lucrative market, visits from other suppliers followed. With them came a diversity of peoples, many of whom brought skills and practises previously unseen to Australia, affording them the opportunity to establish businesses that could supply other immigrants with a taste of home.

One might have anticipated a scenario in early Australia similar to that which led to the birth of American Bourbon and its sister whiskies, when in the early 1700s, a combination of bad economic times and religious unrest against the established Church in Great Britain set off a wave of emigration from Scotland and Ireland. These settlers who came to be known as the "Scotch-Irish" in the new World, brought to North America their religion, their distrust of government control, and their skill at distilling whiskey.

Instead in Australia, the wine industry won out, although many early wineries did produce Brandy (an oak matured spirit distilled from grapes) in large quantities for both consumption and the fortification of wines such as Port, Tokay, and Muscat - all of which were far more popular than table wines until relatively recently. It's also noteworthy that while beer has been an enormous part of Australia's drinking culture for well over a century, whisky has not - despite the fact that the primary ingredient of beer is malted barley, also the key ingredient for Scotland's malt whiskies. One is a logical extension of the other. By contrast, the American whiskey industry was founded by immigrants who made use of surplus local ingredients, namely corn, wheat and rye (in fact, several existing American stills were originally named 'beer stills'). In short, the ingredients (grains), the knowledge (immigrants) and equipment (pot stills & barrels) have been available in Australia for a long time. As to why Australia didn't take to whisky earlier remains uncertain.

The elements of great Scotch whisky - peat (a primitive form of coal), casks for maturation, clean water and quality grains are all available in Australia. A thought for quiet contemplation next time you taste one of Australia's whiskies: If the ingredients (grain, peat), the knowledge (immigrants) and equipment (pot stills & barrels) have long been available in Australia, why has it taken over 200 years to begin producing whisky of global renown?

A fragment from the Kelly's still.

Tracing Australia's distilling roots has been a difficult task. Our initial research indicates that grains, some of which may have been malted, were being distilled illegally, and made into whisk(e)y. Ned Kelly and his gang are said to have funded some of their exploits by selling whiskey made in a still hidden in the bush, some distance from their hideout at Bullock Creek, near Mansfield. A small still was installed nearby the Kelly's den as a front so that in the event that the authorities were informed, the main operation could continue unhindered. Kelly's gang grew barley & mange wurzel on their 20 acre plot to produce their whiskey. A fragment of a pot still was recovered in 1968, exactly where Ned described in would be in a letter he wrote to his mother over eighty years earlier.

In the 1880s in Nirranda, a tiny village east of Warrnambool, Victoria, Tom Delaney distilled whisky employing a recipe and technique based on Dr Marcus Lafayette Burn's book "The Complete Practical Distiller". Delaney's Whiskey is said to have been called 'Mountain Dew' and was "as smooth as new milk" according to local farmer, Pat Delaney. The whiskey was available to sample at Job Wines' Hotel at Woodford, north of Warrnambool, indicating that there was both a demand, and that it was indeed drinkable. At the peak of production, Delaney is said to have been producing 100 gallons (378 litres) a week. Following his arrest in 1894, production ceased.

Both the Kelly and Delaney families were of Irish descent, and presumably produced whiskies in an Irish style, which is why we've used the 'e' when spelling whisky. The 'e' vanishes from this article now, as in 1928 with the founding of Australia's biggest distillery, the aim became to replicate 'Scotch' whisky, the style that has continued to inspire most of today's Australian whisky makers.



Australian single malt whiskies span a range of styles, but are renowned for their complexity and depth.
Many Australian whiskies are bottled at cask strength and typically non chill-filtered - providing for a rich depth of flavour. Australian single malt whisky distilleries choose not to use artificial colouring to enhance appearance.
A number of Australian whiskies are 'peated' to varying degrees using locally sourced peat. For example, the highlands of Tasmania have a vast coverage of peat - which is an accumulation of partially decayed vegetation matter. In order to make a peated whisky, before distillation the barley is dried over peat fires, the barley enveloped in smoke.
Australian whiskies can vary greatly in style, but some of the terms used to describe Australian whiskies include: "malt"..."citrus"..."vanilla"..."fruit"..."smoke"..."apricot"..."honey"..."rainforest"...and..."pepper". To learn more about tasting and evaluating Australian whiskies, visit the Tasting tipssection of australianwhiskies.com.
Many of the highly regarded Australian single malt whiskies come from the island State of Tasmania, a cool climate region perfect for the production of single malt whisky.

Mixers

A good whisky should never be masked by the addition of cola or other carbonated mixers. If you want to truly appreciate all the characteristics of a single malt whisky - then you need to leave the mixer in the fridge and out of your glass.

Ice cubes

Don't use them. The ice inhibits the aromas of the whisky and it will be harder to pick out the more delicate notes of the whisky. Ice also dulls the flavour of the whisky on your palate.

Water

Yes you can add water! In fact a touch of water can often help to open up the aromas and flavour of the whisky. Adding a few drops of water takes the edge off the alcohol as a primary sensation, allowing your nose and mouth to more easily detect the finer characteristics of the whisky. This is particularly true of cask strength whiskies, which typically have a much higher level of alcohol by volume.
How much water? This is an individual choice, but it should be droplets not splashes. I find that four to five droplets of water is usually ideal for most Australian whiskies (assuming a standard measure of 30ml) - this varies depending on the whisky and the percentage of alcohol.
You may wish to try the whisky without water to start with, then add some water prior to a second evaluation.
Some people prefer not to add water, often noting that whiskies have already been diluted with water prior to bottling, in order to bring down the alcohol level. These people would argue that adding more water further dilutes the flavours and aromas.
Indeed some whisky does not benefit from the addition of water and it ultimately comes down to trial and error, and personal preference. Generally, I would not recommend adding water to very old whiskies (whisky over 18 years old). It can also be more difficult to detect the finer nuances of more delicate whiskies when water is added.
When adding water, avoid highly chlorinated tap water and never use carbonated water.

Glassware

The traditional short glass tumbler known as an 'old fashioned', 'lowball' or 'rocks' glass is not ideal for single malt whisky; despite the frequent association.
A tulip-shaped glass with a reasonable sized bowl for swirling and a narrow lip at the top, is the best type of glass for evaluating whisky. The tulip shape of the glass helps direct the aromas to the nose.
A glass specifically designed for whisky tasting was developed by Glencairn Crystal Ltd, of Scotland - imaginatively named the 'Glencairn Glass'. As intended, the glass is indeed ideal for whisky tasting. A photo of the Glencairn Glass can be found in the References section below.

:: Whisky evaluation - techniques ::

There are four key components of whisky evaluation: appearance, smell, taste and finish.
When evaluating a whisky you will use your senses of sight, smell, taste and touch ('mouth-feel').

1: Appearance

When evaluating the appearance of a whisky, three keys areas are examined: colour, viscosity and clarity.

Colour

The colour of whisky can span a wide spectrum, from gin clear (new spirit) through to deep treacle. Colour can indicate the type of oak cask used and the length of maturation; as the colour of whisky comes from contact with the oak. As a general rule, the longer the period of maturation, the deeper and darker the colour of the whisky. The minimum legal length of maturation for a scotch whisky is three years, though most single malt whiskies will be much older than this.
Typically, most whiskies are matured in oak casks previously used for maturing bourbon or sherry. Whisky matured in sherry casks is often darker or more amber, while whisky matured in bourbon casks is often more golden-yellow/honey in colour.
The number of times that an oak cask has been previously used will affect how much colour and flavour is imparted to the whisky during maturation. A cask that has been used many times before tends to impart less colour; and conversely a cask that has been used just the once will impart more colour (and flavour).
Whisky makers sometimes use a combination of different casks and some have been experimenting with less conventional oak casks, such as those previously used for red wine maturation. The Hellyers Road Distillery in Tasmania produces a single malt whisky that has matured in oak casks previously used for Tasmanian Pinot Noir; an often stunning red wine for which Tasmania is world famous.
While it tends to be frowned upon by whisky connoisseurs, whisky makers are permitted to use caramel to adjust the colour of their whisky. Although some whisky makers argue that caramel is undetectable on the nose or palate, many connoisseurs disagree. Many fine distilleries choose not to use caramel and will often proudly state this on the bottle or packaging.
Thankfully, Australian whisky distilleries avoid the use of caramel for colouring.

To evaluate the colour of a whisky, look at the whisky in the glass against a white background (a sheet of white paper is the easiest solution) - it helps to tilt the glass a little away from yourself.

Viscosity

In regard to fluids, viscosity can be described as a measure of 'thickness'. For example, water would be considered 'thin' with a low viscosity, while maple syrup would be described as 'thick' with a higher viscosity.
Determining the relative viscosity of a whisky can indicate its age, as older whiskies tend to have a higher viscosity ('thicker').
To evaluate the viscosity of a whisky; swirl the whisky in the glass so that it whirls towards the top of the glass, then cease swirling and watch for the long tear-drop streaks that run down the inside of the glass (often referred to as 'legs'). Thicker, slow moving legs usually indicate an older whisky; while thin, fast moving legs indicate a younger whisky. Long legs usually indicate that a whisky is high in alcohol.

Clarity

Many whiskies are chill-filtered to remove haziness or cloudiness, giving the whisky a bright clarity. While this aids in appearance; many argue that by removing the oily/fatty compounds, chill-filtering also diminishes the flavour of a whisky.
Non chill-filtered whiskies will go cloudy or hazy when water is added; and aside from looking at the whisky label, this is an excellent way to determine whether a whisky has been chill-filtered. The cloudiness is most noticeable as the water is being added and often won't persist as much as time passes. Non chill-filtered whiskies are said to have a fuller flavour and richness; and for this reason many distilleries do not chill-filter their whiskies.
Whiskies that are higher in alcohol are often non chill-filtered, as at higher alcohol levels the whisky will usually remain unclouded.
Most Australian whiskies are non chill-filtered and many are bottled at cask strength.

2: Smell

While the human tongue can distinguish only among five distinct primary tastes (as covered below under 'Taste') - the nose can distinguish hundreds of different smells. This gives an indication of just how important our sense of smell is when evaluating whiskies.
To evaluate the aromas of a whisky, swirl the whisky in the glass and then place your nostrils at the top of the glass and take a small, short smell of the whisky. Take your nose away from the top of the glass after each evaluation.
Try to associate a word with each aroma you detect, for example when nosing a peated Australian whisky you may note a mild 'smokey' aroma, perhaps reminiscent of smoke from a log fire. If you are able to associate a particular aroma with something you are familiar with or a descriptive word, then it is much easier to describe the smell and various aromas of a whisky. This is a useful skill for comparing whiskies and discussing the characteristics of a whisky with others.

You can smell the whisky a number of times in order to detect all the aromas. Be aware though, that over time you will become acclimatised to the smell and it can be harder to detect new characteristics.
The level of alcohol present in a whisky can also impair your ability to detect some finer notes, as the alcohol can induce a burning sensation and mask the aromas. This is why water is often added (see information in the 'Water' section above, under 'General tips').

3: Taste

There are four commonly acknowledged primary tastes: sweet, sour, salty and bitter. Many researchers also note a fifth taste: 'umami'. The term umami is borrowed from a Japanese word meaning 'flavour' or 'taste'. As the fifth taste, umami refers to 'savouriness' and is often described as 'brothy', 'meaty' or 'savoury'.
With the addition of umami, the five primary tastes are: sweet, sour, salty, bitter and savoury.
To evaluate the taste of a whisky, take a small sip of whisky and then move the fluid around in your mouth for a couple of seconds prior to swallowing.
As is the case with smell, it is useful to associate a word or something familiar with each flavour you detect when tasting a whisky. For example, when tasting an Australian whisky you may note a slight 'citrus' character, perhaps reminiscent of lemon or orange.
The level of alcohol present in a whisky can mask some of the finer nuances on the palate; which is why people often add water when tasting a whisky (see information in the 'Water' section above, under 'General tips').

Mouth-feel

As you move the fluid around in your mouth prior to swallowing, it is possible to get a sense of the feel of the whisky in your mouth (known as mouth-feel) - using your sense of touch.
Mouth-feel is the 'weight' or 'thickness' of the whisky in your mouth and can span from thin and light in body, through to thick and full.
You may have already gleaned an indicator of the likely mouth-feel, when assessing the viscosity of the whisky earlier. For example, if you determined earlier that the whisky has a high viscosity, then it is more likely that the whisky will have a full, thick mouth-feel.

4: Finish

The finish refers to the length of time that the flavours of a whisky linger on your palate after swallowing. The length of the finish can be described as being short, medium or long.
The best whiskies will have a long, lingering and thoroughly enjoyable finish. In contrast, the finish of a bad whisky will often reiterate all the poorest characteristics or present new unpleasant surprises.
A good finish should embody the distinct characteristics and qualities of a whisky.

Glencairn Whisky Glass

The Glencairn Whisky Glass was designed by Glencairn Crystal Ltd. This image was obtained from Wikipedia.
This image was sourced from the Wikipedia article here: Glencairn Whisky Glass.

Whisky Wheel

The Whisky Wheel was developed by Whisky Magazine.

Colour bar

This Colour Bar was developed by Whisky Magazine.